Instructions for Fitting Individual Bars to a Motorcycle
The pain in your neck, back, or wrist may be relieved by installing a new handlebar on your motorbike, which is a simple process if you take a few precautions and keep a few things in mind. When the handlebars are set up correctly, the motorcycle is more manageable and enjoyable. And a lot less risky. You can figure out what needs to be changed by thinking about how you and the bike interact the next time you go for a ride.
Sitting on the bike in the garage and imagining how it should look will serve the same purpose if it’s the dead of winter and you can’t get outside. Close your eyes and feel around for where you want the grips to be. Please open your eyes to examine where your hands are about the current holds once you have positioned them at the optimal angle and position. This can help you determine your replacement handlebar’s ideal height and width. Maybe you need some Ape-hangers, or perhaps you’re more of a T-Bar kind of rider. Keep in mind that without a windshield, a higher and broader bar will expose more of your body to the relative wind, increasing the pressure on your body.
At high speeds, most riders feel more at ease if they can lean on the handlebar to relieve the force of the wind. While turning at full lock requires a more extended reach for the outside grip on T-Bars, the wider handlebars enhance your leverage and make steering easier. Let’s be honest, though: those massive 1 1/4″ fat 18″ Apehangers are the ultimate symbol of calm.
Changing to a new set of handlebars is simple. Before purchasing a handlebar, you should measure your bike to ensure it will accommodate it. Width, height, and depth are the typical dimensions. The dimensions of a bar are its width and height, which are self-explanatory, while some manufacturers indicate the entire height from the base of the central part to the peak of the outer section. The pullback is the distance between the bar’s ends and its midsection.
To begin the actual swap, the old handlebar must be removed. Remove all grips and mirrors; without their levers, they become incredibly awkward to use. The clutch side grip can be glued or silicone on; therefore, getting it off will take some effort. The casing for the kill switch secures the throttle. Take off the housing screws and separate the halves. If there are two throttle cables, mentally note their relative positions to replace the grip in the correct order. Remove the knobs and handles and set them on the shop towels. The bar mounts should be loosened, the new bar inserted, and the clamp tightened by hand. Get a feel for the bike’s angle, width, and pullback by sitting on it. Satisfied? Check for tank clearance at full lock after installing switch clusters loosely at the appropriate distance from the ends to accommodate the grips.
Mount the clutch and brake, switch clusters, and grips (use compressed air with closed-end grips to help the sliding on more accessible, or give the insides a little squirt of contact cleaner) and check to see if you like the location. If everything is fine, tighten the main clamp and enjoy the ride!
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