The installation of a shower or bathtub, as well as its enclosure and surrounding space, is the primary focus here. But first, let’s take a look at some standard bathroom installation blunders and helpful pointers.
Standard Errors Made During Bathroom Remodeling and How to Avoid Them
Most bathroom installations have several noticeable flaws. Those mistakes are detailed below.
Pipes that are too small, connecting copper and galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting, failing to use Teflon tape or pipe compound, improper alignment of the tubing into fittings or stop valves, failing to fill air gaps around fixtures, and short supply stub outs for installing shutoff valves after the wall is finished are all examples of common plumbing mistakes.
Now that you’re aware of those mistakes, it would be to your advantage to become familiar with some of the regulations established by the federal government for individuals who are considering an upgrade to their bathroom. Remember that these guidelines are not simply applicable if you’re planning on constructing a toilet for people in wheelchairs but for anyone with mobility restrictions. Some suggested rules of thumb are as follows:
Entrances
You’ll need a door at least 32 inches wide to enter the room, so that’s the first thing to check. The entryway must be widened to about 36 inches if it is a corridor, and a wheelchair user must turn from the hall into the doorway. Don’t install a threshold if you can help it. If you must have a point, pick one flat, no more than 1/4 inch high, perhaps beveled on both sides and no more than 3/4 inch tall. Someone in your household may have trouble grasping a regular door knob because of weak hands. Most people agree that lever handles are preferable to knobs. The handles are not allowed to be more than 48 inches from the ground.
Fixtures for the Toilet
Accessible toilets have a seat height of 17 to 19 inches, making them more comfortable for those with trouble sitting 14 to 15 inches off the ground in a standard bathroom. It’s recommended that the sink’s rim not be more than 34 inches from the ground. In addition, the sinks need to be set back from the rear wall by at least 17 inches, and the space beneath them needs to be made accessible with a minimum of 29 inches of clearance from the floor to the underside of the sink. Sinks installed in countertops should be no more than 2 inches from any edge for safety reasons. Some authorities say that this approach maximizes accessibility. A protective boot can be placed over them to safeguard the plumbing components further and trap them under the sink. Use a faucet with a single lever handle for ease of use with one closed hand.
Roofing the Floors
Many homeowners saw sheet vinyl flooring as the top option. The smoothness and low maintenance may be the key reasons behind this. To minimize the appearance of grout lines and other surface imperfections, ceramic tiles should ideally be broad and smooth. Keep an eye out for a surface texture that prevents slipping. Carpets for the floor should have a nap height of half an inch or less.
Space Requirements
Another piece of guidance for the wheelchair-bound. A wheelchair requires at least 60 inches, or 5 feet, of clearance to make a complete 180-degree turn. It’s important to remember that clearing this much room can be challenging, so you might want to think about using a T-shaped layout instead. The minimum width for a T is 36 inches on each leg. Some authorities claim that with this layout, a wheelchair user won’t have to make as large of a circle as necessary to turn in all directions simultaneously. In the same vein, ensure that any walkways to the fixtures are at least 36 inches wide. And the sink has to have some open floor space in front of it.
Safety rails
The grab bars are one of the best parts of any modern bathroom. Thanks to these, the bathroom is now a safer and more convenient place for everyone to use. Well, it’s important to remember that the ideal location for a horizontal grasp bar is on the wall opposite the toilet. Another one can be mounted on the side wall of the closet opposite the commode. The grab bars should also be installed inside the shower and tub. Wood blocking should be installed in any unfinished walls as part of any renovation or new construction. The installation of the grip bars might be simplified in this way.
Alright, no more rules and regulations. Now, let’s look at how to set up a bathroom fixture, like a shower or bathtub.
Shower and Tub Setup Instructions
It is crucial to remember that the pipes needed for a shower or bathtub installation comprise the hot and cold supply lines and the pipe going to the shower head. A blending valve and shower head with air chambers is also commonly recommended by specialists.
In terms of fixture count, bathrooms and showers typically fare poorly. As a result, they, like sinks, are frequently installed on branch drains and damp or back vented. Because of the slant of the floor drain trap, water from shower stalls and bathtubs enters the stack at the same level.
It is essential to keep in mind that a bare wall is needed to install a shower faucet and head assembly. Bathtubs and shower enclosures may also require additional construction for stability. The widespread belief that a full bathtub is quite heavy necessitates careful consideration of the building requirements and framing support before a bathtub may be installed. The space allotted for a shower stall must also be taken into account. Some experts recommend at least 1,024 square inches for a toilet stall, with an additional 24 inches around the booth and from the stall’s walls, doors, and floors.
These are the foundational rules:
First, the tub shouldn’t go in until all the pipes are in.
Two put the bath down into position. With this method, a continuous flange can be snugged up against the studs of a wall and supported by either 1x4s or 2x4s. Nails or screws driven through the tub flanges and into the enclosure’s studs should be used to secure the tub to the latter.
Third, connect the drain pipes. To avoid this, ensure the overflow drain is connected to the tub’s drain above the trap and not below it. There will be a compression fitting on the web that screws onto the overflow assembly’s arm.
Fourth, install a hot and cold water mixing valve near the bathtub or shower. You can achieve this by directly connecting the hot and cold lines to the mixing valve.
Fifth, install the shower head and pipe it up the wall. Remember that a brass female threaded winged fitting, nailed or screwed into a framing support, should be put on at the top of this pipe.
The tub spout requires an extension of a half-inch pipe. However, this must be done by the manufacturer’s guidelines. Add a male threaded fitting to the pipe’s end, or use a brass nipple of the right length and a 1/2″ cap.
Your rough plumbing has to be inspected at this time, number 7.
After restoring the water pressure, check for leaks in the supply pipes and the drain connection.
9 Install new drywall that can withstand dampness as a base for your wall covering. Remember that you’ll want to caulk or seal any seams between your new tub and the wall. This caulk will prevent water from leaking through the cracks.
Tenth, connect the knobs, spout, and shower head. Note that the shower head attaches to the arm using a screw. The pipe threads should be cleaned, and a new pipe joint compound should be applied whenever a shower head is installed or replaced. In addition, Teflon tape can be used to seal potential leak points.
Putting up a Tub Enclosure
A bathtub surround, often called a wall kit, is a simple solution to create an aesthetically pleasing, watertight, and low-maintenance enclosure for a bathtub or shower stall. Plaster, tile, drywall, or any other solid, flat wall can install these surrounds. You can buy surround-sound systems now. Most kits have between three and five interlocking pieces to provide for varying sizes. You may also want to read the included instructions before you leave the store. It’s a good idea to pick up some glue and matching caulk from the store if you plan on putting a bathtub surround.
Putting up a Bathtub Screen
To begin with, a bathtub enclosure is the last touch on a whirlpool tub or a drop-in tub. So, if you’re thinking about getting one of those tubs, you might also want to think about getting an enclosure.
Putting in a new tub enclosure is easier than you might think. You can construct it if you have some practice and the necessary supplies. Think about this:
Dimensions and Forms
When designing a bathroom, the tub is one of the primary focal points. It has been suggested that the ideal bathtubs for which to construct a surround are drop-in models designed for shower stalls. However, whirlpool tubs are excellent enclosure components in and of themselves.
An enclosure is essentially required to conceal the plumbing for either the drop-in or the whirlpool tub. If you’re considering constructing one, you need to know the plumbing and drainage systems and how to work around them.
So long! Wishing you the best of luck with your new bathroom installation.
Author: Michelle Hamilton
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