Thin layers of fine concrete, known as “decorative concrete overlays,” cover up ugly existing concrete floors. Although it is most commonly used on floors, it is adaptable for walls.
The procedure is relatively easy to complete when one has the right resources. The floor is primed with a polymer that looks like milk; this is the simplest application method. It’s milky white and smooth. The next step involves pouring polymer into a 5-gallon bucket, adding color, mixing quickly, and then slowly adding concrete until the mixture reaches the consistency of pancake batter. Pour onto the floor and thinly spread out.
Concrete sealers are typically used as the second coat in a two-coat procedure. So long. It’s not that significant.
Here are the steps you need to take this weekend to apply. Whether outfitting a 3,000-square-foot storefront or a 500-square-foot basement, this system works the same.
First, on a Friday after you get off work. Ensure the cleanliness of the surface. Tape off edges, columns, and staircases using blue painter’s tape. Plastic sheeting could be helpful for this purpose. The blue painter’s tape attached to the roll variety should be used. Never start at the top and work your way down. The next step is to clean the floor after spraying (with a cheap, garden-style sprayer) or pouring polymer onto the ground. About an hour is needed for a 500-square-foot area.
Second Stage: Saturday Morning, Re-polymerize the floor and wait for it to dry. Dry time is less than an hour if the slab is also at a suitable temperature. Put this time to good use by establishing a mixing area. Tools like a drill and a mixing paddle can be found in hardware stores. Two 5-gallon buckets, a 7-by-5-foot tarp for protecting the floor, some knee pads, and a “Magic Trowel.” (the “magic trowel” is a squeegee)
When the polymer has dried, begin mixing the first bucket. Most producers of overlay sell their wares in 200-square-foot buckets. The procedure is pouring the polymer into a 5-gallon bucket, adding the color, and mixing it with a drill and mixing paddle for a few seconds or as the manufacturer directs. The next step is to pour in concrete, stirring constantly to prevent lumps gradually.
When the mixture is done, pour a circular patch on the floor about 2 to 3 feet in diameter and spread it evenly and thinly. It shouldn’t take more than an hour to mop a bed that’s 500 square feet. Give it 5 hours to dry. A 100-120 grit palm sander can lightly smooth up any drop marks or high places. Second coats are often thinner and wetter than the first. This second phase needs to be quicker than the first.
Three, on a Sunday: Seal the concrete with two coats. Acrylic sealants are highly suggested. Light applications of glue should be put on using a garden pump sprayer. Wait two to three hours in between coats. The finishing touches are the wax or finish coatings. Most wax coatings are too thick to be sprayed on, so you’ll need to pour them onto the floor and spread them with a thick microfiber mop. Streaks are impossible to produce while using a thick microfiber mop. Two-coat systems containing wax finishes with 30% solids are available. You’ll need to apply five or six coats to get the same results as a 30% solids product with a 25% solids coat. The entire process of applying sealer and wax should take no more than an hour.
That’s how it goes down. It takes roughly 5 hours of actual work plus a lot of dry time to apply 500 square feet of floor. The total price per square foot includes labor and materials and averages $1.50 to $2.00.
Concrete acid stains or dyes will add a day to the project timeline. Cost-effective but time-consuming, stains and dyes are a necessary evil. The floor will be dry in 24 hours. You shouldn’t hurry and risk trapping moisture under your slab.
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